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Broad Peak 8047-M Expedition 2025-2026 Mountaineering in Pakistan
Gasherbrum I, also known as Hidden Peak, is a major mountain in the Karakoram Range, which is part of the broader Himalaya mountain chain. This peak received the nickname “Hidden Peak” due to its concealed position among a cluster of tall peaks in one of the world’s most difficult terrains. Flying over the Karakoram range, one can marvel at the intricate maze of mountains, with K2, the world’s second-highest peak, standing as a dominant behemoth among them. The Gasherbrum range stands out among the peaks to the southeast.
Gasherbrum I is one of six separate peaks in the Karakoram Range known as the Gasherbrum peaks. The term “Gasherbrum” comes from the local language and translates to “Shining Wall,” which is an apt descriptor for these spectacular peaks.
The conquering of Gasherbrum I is a story of dedication, perseverance, and adventure. The first reported effort to ascend the mountain was made in 1936 by a French team commanded by H. De Segogne. However, they encountered difficult obstacles and were unable to advance beyond camp five at an altitude of 6,797 meters.
Gasherbrum I was not successfully conquered until 1958. This incredible feat was accomplished by an American expedition led by Nich Clinch. Climbers Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were the first to reach the summit, ushering in an era of mountaineering history.
The trek to Gasherbrum I’s base camp is difficult. It usually starts at Skardu and winds through the scenic Shigar Valley. The approach trip then continues through the treacherous Baltoro Glacier and the southern Aburuzi glaciers, leading climbers to base camp. This difficult path is only accessible during the summer months, usually from June to August, when the weather is more conducive to mountaineering.
The summit of Gasherbrum I is a testimony to human perseverance and the spirit of discovery. With its breathtaking beauty and difficult terrain, it remains a popular destination for adventurers from all over the world, leaving an unforgettable mark on climbing history.
Saltoro Summits, an organization dedicated to discovering and documenting the beauty and challenges of this extraordinary terrain, has a webpage with more information about mountaineering and expeditions in the Karakoram Range.
- Location: Karakoram, Baltistan, Pakistan
- Duration: 50 days
- Min Age: 18
- Max People: 12
- Day 1: Arrival Islamabad — Arrival at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to the hotel. Evening briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in the hotel.
- Day 2: Islamabad to Chilas — Departure via Babusar Top, Kaghan Valley. Check-in at Chilas.
- Day 3: Chilas to Skardu — Arrival in Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22–24 hours. Overnight in the hotel.
- Day 4: Skardu — Final arrangement of the expedition. Overnight in the hotel.
- Day 5: Skardu to Askole — Full-day jeep drive on a winding trail through wild gorges to Askole. Distance 96 km, drive 07–08 hrs, altitude 3050 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 6: Askole to Korophone — After breakfast leave the last inhabited village. Porters carry food and equipment. Walk 03–04 hrs. Grade: Easy. Altitude: 3100 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 7: Korophone to Jhula — Trek to the Dumurdo river crossing at Jhula (showers, water, toilets, camp platforms). Walk 03–04 hrs. Grade: Strenuous. Altitude: 3150 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 8: Jhula to Paiyu — Trek along the Braldu River to a green oasis under Paiju Peak (6611 m). Walk 05–06 hrs. Grade: Moderate. Altitude: 3480 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 9: Paiyu Camp — Rest day for acclimatization. “Paiyu” is a Balti word meaning “salt”. Overnight in tents.
- Day 10: Paiyu to Urdukas — Traverse the junction of Paiju–Baltoro glaciers via crevasses; lunch below Liligo with fine views of rock spires. Splendid views of Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial groups. Walk 06–07 hrs. Grade: Moderate. Altitude: 4130 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 11: Urdukas to Goro — Long walk on the icy Baltoro with views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Walk 06–07 hrs. Grade: Strenuous. Altitude: 4500 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 12: Goro to Concordia — Trek on the Baltoro to Concordia, the conjunction of Godwin-Austen & Baltoro glaciers. Within a 19 km radius stand 41 peaks over 6500 m, including four above 8000 m. Walk 05–06 hrs. Grade: Strenuous. Altitude: 4720 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 13: Concordia to Broad Peak Base Camp — Easy 3–4 hrs on upper Baltoro glacier. Overnight in tents.
- Day 14: Rest Day in Base Camp — Final arrangement of the expedition. Overnight in tents.
- Days 15–42: Climbing — Summit period; duration depends on weather, fitness, and experience.
- Day 43: Broad Peak Base Camp to Ali Camp — Early morning walk down to Concordia and onward to Ali Camp via Vigne glacier; cross rivers early. Overnight in tents.
- Day 44: Ali Camp to Gondogoro La to Khuspang — Start ~2 am to avoid rockfall on Hushe side. Crampons & harnesses, rope up on West Vigne Glacier; 3–4 hrs steep ascent to the pass with views of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum. Descend to Hushe side. Walk 10–12 hrs. Grade: Strenuous. Altitude: 5700 m. Overnight in tents.
- Day 45: Khuspang to Shaicho — One tricky crevasse after Khuspang, then easier glacier crossing to Dalsangpa (“field of flowers”). Continue past Laila Peak BC to the green campsite at Shaicho by Hushe River; views of Masherbrum if clear. Walk 06–07 hrs. Grade: Moderate. Overnight in tents.
- Day 46: Shaicho to Hushey — Last trekking day following Hushe River to beautiful Hushe village. Overnight in tents.
- Day 47: Hushey to Skardu — Full-day jeep ride to Skardu. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 48: Skardu to Islamabad — Flight (weather permitting) or drive via Babusar Top/Kaghan Valley. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 49: Kaghan to Islamabad — Early morning drive. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 50: Islamabad – De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan & transfer to Islamabad International Airport. End of services.
Route: Alpine Club of Pakistan → Askole
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