Shipton Spire (5,852 meters) – A True Challenge with Saltoro Summits

Overview
Shipton Spire, standing at an impressive 5,852 meters, is a standout peak in the Trango Group of the Baltoro Glacier region in the Karakoram Range. Named after the legendary British mountaineer Eric Shipton, this peak is known for its steep granite walls and challenging ascent routes. It offers climbers an extraordinary experience amidst stunning landscapes and a rich mountaineering history.

Reaching the Base Camp
The journey to Shipton Spire begins in Islamabad and proceeds to Skardu. From Skardu, climbers drive to Askole, the last village before entering the rugged Karakoram terrain. From Askole, a 7-9 day trek takes climbers through breathtaking landscapes and essential camps like Jhola, Paiyu, Urdukas, and Goro II, eventually reaching the Trango Towers base camp where the formidable Shipton Spire comes into view.

Climbing Challenges
The ascent of Shipton Spire primarily focuses on the Southeast Ridge. This route requires advanced skills in rock climbing, route navigation, and high-altitude techniques. Climbers encounter long pitches on strong granite rock, changing weather conditions, and complex route-finding challenges. The climb can take 7-10 days, depending on the efficiency of the team and the prevailing weather conditions.

Permits
As Shipton Spire lies within a restricted zone, climbers need a permit from the Tourism Department of Gilgit-Baltistan. Saltoro Summits handles all aspects of this permit process, ensuring proper documentation and fee management. Permit costs depend on the season and the climbers’ nationality, and it’s advisable to apply for permits well in advance.

Historical Significance
The first successful ascent of Shipton Spire was made in 1997 by an American team consisting of Alex Lowe, Mark Synnott, and Jared Ogden. Their successful climb via the Southeast Ridge solidified Shipton Spire as a coveted peak among climbers aiming to conquer challenging heights in the Karakoram.

Why Choose Saltoro Summits?
With over 34 years of expertise, Saltoro Summits offers unmatched support for climbers, including logistics, high-quality gear, and experienced guides. Their commitment ensures that every expedition is safe, well-planned, and customized to fit your specific goals. Whether you are an experienced mountaineer or a passionate adventurer, Saltoro Summits provides everything needed to make your climb on Shipton Spire a reality.

Key Terms and Conditions

  • Climbers should have previous experience in technical rock climbing and high-altitude mountaineering.
  • Comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude rescue and evacuation is required.
  • Environmental and cultural guidelines must be followed to protect the Karakoram ecosystem.
  • Expeditions are weather-dependent, and itineraries may need to be adjusted as necessary.

Start your epic journey to Shipton Spire, where technical skill, adventure, and camaraderie come together. Partner with Saltoro Summits for a carefully organized and well-supported climb on one of the most thrilling peaks in the Karakoram.

  • Location: Karakoram, Baltistan, Pakistan
  • Duration: 32 Days
  • Min Age: 18
  • Max People: 12
  • Day 1: Arrival at Islamabad International Airport. Transfer to hotel. Evening briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 2: Islamabad to Chilas via Babusar Top & Kaghan Valley. Check-in hotel. Overnight in Chilas.
  • Day 3: Chilas to Skardu (22–24 hrs drive). Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 4: Skardu – final arrangement of the trek.
  • Day 5: Skardu to Askole by jeep through wild gorges. Overnight in tents at Askole.
  • Day 6: Askole to Korophone. Overnight in tents.
  • Day 7: Korophone to Jhula. Trek to Dumurdo river crossing. Overnight in tents.
  • Day 8: Jhula to Paiyu. Oasis under Paiju Peak (6611m). Overnight in tents.
  • Day 9: Paiyu to Shipton Spire Base Camp. Overnight in tents.
  • Days 10–24: Climbing days towards Summit (weather & fitness dependent).
  • Day 25: Base Camp to Paiyu. Overnight in tents.
  • Day 26: Paiyu to Jhula. Overnight in tents.
  • Day 27: Jhula to Askole. Overnight in tents.
  • Day 28: Askole to Skardu. Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 29: Skardu to Kaghan (flight to Islamabad if possible, else drive). Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 30: Kaghan to Islamabad. Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 31: De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan, Islamabad. Afternoon sightseeing. Overnight in hotel.
  • Day 32: Departure from Islamabad International Airport. End of services.

Route: Islamabad → Chilas → Skardu → Askole → Base Camp

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