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Chogolisa Peak 7665 M Expedition 2026 - 2027 Saltoro Summits Pakistan
Chogolisa, standing at 7,665 meters (25,148 feet), is the 36th highest mountain in the world and part of the Masherbrum range in the Karakoram of Baltistan. Its coordinates are 35°36’42″N, 76°34’18″E, and it boasts a prominence of 1,624 meters with Masherbrum as its parent peak. Known for its majestic trapezoidal shape, Chogolisa has two prominent summits: the South-western summit (7,665m) and the North-eastern summit (7,654m), along with four ridges.
This striking “Bride Peak,” named by Martin Conway for its proximity to K2, offers an iconic snowy pyramid view. Tragically, it was the site where Hermann Buhl disappeared in 1957 during an ascent with Kurt Diemberger. Despite being considered one of the easier climbs in the Karakoram, Chogolisa has seen its share of peril. Conway made multiple failed attempts in the early 1900s, followed by the Duke of Abruzzi’s team in 1909, and further challenges in 1958 when Japanese climbers reached the North-eastern summit.
The first successful ascent of the South-western summit occurred in 1975 by Austrians G. Ammerer and A. Pressl via the Western ridge. Later notable climbs include a French team’s 1984 ascent and the first traverse between the two summits by a British team in 1986. The mountain’s history of exploration and challenges makes it a fascinating destination for climbers and adventurers.
- Location: Chillas, KPK
- Duration: 45 Days
- Min Age: 18
- Max People: 12
- Day 1: Arrival at Islamabad International Airport. Transfer to hotel. Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 2: Islamabad to Chilas via Babusar Top & Kaghan Valley. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 3: Chilas to Skardu (22–24 hrs drive). Overnight in hotel.
- Day 4: Skardu – final expedition arrangements.
- Day 5: Skardu to Askole by jeep (96 km, 7–8 hrs). Overnight in tents. Alt: 3050m
- Day 6: Askole to Korophone (3–4 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 3100m
- Day 7: Korophone to Jhula (3–4 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 3150m
- Day 8: Jhula to Paiyu (5–6 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 3480m
- Day 9: Acclimatization at Paiyu Camp. Overnight in tents.
- Day 10: Paiyu to Urdukas (6–7 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 4130m
- Day 11: Urdukas to Goro (6–7 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 4500m
- Day 12: Goro to Concordia (5–6 hrs trek). Overnight in tents. Alt: 4720m
- Day 13: Concordia to Chogolisa Base Camp. Overnight in tents.
- Day 14 – 37: Climbing days towards Chogolisa Summit (weather, fitness & experience dependent).
- Day 38: Base Camp to Ali Camp via Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents.
- Day 39: Ali Camp – Gondogoro La – Khuspang (10–12 hrs trek, Alt: 5700m). Overnight in tents.
- Day 40: Khuspang to Shaicho (6–7 hrs trek). Overnight in tents.
- Day 41: Shaicho to Hushe Village. Overnight in tents.
- Day 42: Hushe to Skardu by jeep. Overnight in hotel.
- Day 43: Skardu to Islamabad (flight, or road via Kaghan if weather prevents). Overnight in hotel.
- Day 44: Kaghan to Islamabad (if by road). Overnight in hotel.
- Day 45: Islamabad – De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Transfer to airport. End of services.
Route: Alpine Club of Pakistan → Askole → Concordia → Chogolisa Base Camp → Hushe
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