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Broad Peak 8047-M - Saltoro Summits

The name of Broad Peak introduced by W.M.Convey a British explorer during his expedition in 1892. In the Balti language name of Broad Peak is Phalchan Kangri(Falchan Kangri.), because of its breadth at the top. The height of Broad Peak is 8047-M / 26,401 ft. In 1954 Dr.Karl M.Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb it. The party made an attempt however did not meet with success because of a storm and a very low temperature. 

The Austrian expedition came to Pakistan in 1957 to climb this peak. It was lead by Marcus Schmuck with Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer and Hermann Buhl, who is considered one of the best known postwar Austrian climber. It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently, it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5791-M. On the 19th of May 1957, all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the base camp; It was however on the 9th June 157 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using O2 and high altitude porters.

The name of the other peaks in the Broad range is Broad Peak middle/ central. In 1976 that a French Expedition led by Yannick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style along with main Broad Peak. This party of four followed the Austrian first ascent rout a made four attempts but could go only up to 7925-M. The expedition had to come back because of bad weather. Spanish Josef Estruch with five members climbed Broad Peak (Central) in 1987. 

An Italian expedition which was led by Renato Casarottto attempted to climb Broad Peak North 7550-M in 1982 but was unsuccessful. Casarotto, however, succeeded in climbing it in 1983.

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Location: Broad Peak 8047-M

Duration:50 days

Min Age:18

Max People:12

1
Day 1 : Arrival Islamabad
Arrival at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to the hotel. In the evening briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in the hotel.
2
Day 2 : ISLAMABAD TO CHILAS
Departure for Chilas via Babusar Top, Kaghan Valley Check-in hotel at Chilas.
3
Day 3 : CHILAS TO SKARDU
Arrival in Skardu. Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours. Overnight in the hotel
4
Day 4 : SKARDU
The final arrangement of the Expedition. Overnight in the hotel.
5
Day 5 : SKARDU TO ASKOLE
Full day drives with Jeeps on a winding trail to Askole, through a wild, impressive landscape and wild gorges. Overnight stay in tents in the small village of Askole. Distance 96 km Drive 07-08 hrs Altitude 3050 m
6
Day 6 : AKOLE TO KOROPHONE
After an early breakfast leaves the last inhabited village, the remaining portion of our journey, we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment and sustain our Expedition. Overnight in tents. Walk 03 - 04 hrs. Grade: Easy Altitude: 3100 M
7
Day 7 : KOROPHONE TO JHULA
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula. The campsite has shower cabins, running water, toilets, and camp platforms. Overnight in the tents. Walk: 03-04 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 3150 M
8
Day 8 : JHULA TO PAIYU
Trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Overnight in tents. Walk: 05-06 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 3480 M.
9
Day 9 : PAIYU CAMP
Traditional rest day for acclimatization at Paiju camp. Paiyu is a Balti word which means "SALT". Overnight in tents.
10
Day 10 : PAIYU TO URDUKAS
Trekking starts towards Urdukas after an early breakfast. Traverse the junction of Paiju - Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate Altitude: 4130 M
11
Day 11 : URDUKAS TO GORO
A long walk on the icy Baltoro Glacier, with Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Strenuous Altitude: 4500 M.
12
Day 12 : GORO TO CONCORDIA
Trek on the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia. The climax of the Trek is the spectacular conjunction of the Godwin-Austin and Baltoro Glaciers called Concordia, lying at the heart of the most heavily glaciated region outside the Polar areas within a radius of 19 km stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. including 04 peaks above 8000 M., This is the center of the densest concentration of the lofty peaks on Earth. Overnight in tents. Walk: 05 - 06 hrs Grade: strenuous Altitude: 4720 M
13
Day 13 : CONCORDIA TO BROAD PEAK BASE CAMP
Broad Peak BC is an easy 3 to 4 hours walk on upper Baltoro glacier. Overnight in tents
14
Day 14 : REST DAY IN BASE CAMP
The final arrangement of the expedition.
15
Day 15 : CLIMBING
Days 15 – 42 Climbing Climbing start towards Summit. The length of the Climbing period depends on the weather, fitness, and experience of the climber.
43
Day 43 : BROAD PEAK BASE CAMP TO ALI CAMP
Early morning walk down to Concordia and onwards to Ali camp walking on Vigne glacier, try to get over the rivers early. Overnight in tents.
44
Day 44 : ALI CAMP TO GONDOGORO LA TO KHUSPANG
To avoid the risk of rockfalls on the descent on the Hushe side, we start very early around 2 am. After an early breakfast, we will wear crampons and harnesses and set off, roped together onto the West Vigne Glacier towards the foot of the Gondogoro-La pass. After 3-4 hours of steep and strenuous ascent, we reach the top to be rewarded with stunning views of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum. Then descend towards to Hushe valley in another territory of Baltistan. Overnight in tents. Walk : 10 - 12 hrs Grade : Strenuous Altitude : 5700 M
45
Day 45 : KHUSPANG TO SHAICHO
There is one tricky crevasse section to be crossed just after Khuspang but after that the remaining part of glacier crossing is rather simple to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning 'field of flowers', lives up to its name. The beautiful flowers and fauna of Hushe Valley make you feel fresh and energized. After Laila Peak Base Camp, a nice trek to Shaicho, a very green campsite just by Hushe River. If weather clear you can see Masherbrum Peak from the Hushe side. Walk: 06-07 hrs Grade: Moderate
46
Day 46 : SHAICHO TO HUSHEY
This is the last day of the trek following Hushe River along with the greens. Start your easy trek after an early breakfast down towards beautiful Hushe village. Overnight in tents
47
Day 47 : HUSHEY TO SKARDU
After breakfast drive for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to the hotel.
48
Day 48 : SKARDU TO ISLAMABAD
Flight to Islamabad, if unable due to bad weather same day drive to Kaghan Valley via Babusar Top. Overnight in the hotel.
49
Day 49 : KAGHAN TO ISLAMABAD
Early morning drive to Islamabad. Overnight in the Hotel.
50
Day 50 : ISLAMABAD - DE BRIEFING
De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan Islamabad & Transfer to Islamabad International Aiport for your onward destination. End of our Services. Thank YOU!

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