Broad Peak 8047-M
 
50 DAYS ISLAMABAD / BROAD PEAK 8047-M / ISLAMABAD
 

The name of Broad Peak introduced by W.M.Convey a British explorer during his expedition in 1892. In Balti language name of Broad Peak is Phalchan Kangri(Falchan Kangri.),because of its breadth at the top.The height of Broad Peak is 8047-M / 26,401 ft. In 1954 Dr.Karl M.Herligkoffer of West Germany tried to climb it. The party made an attempt however did not meet  with success because of a storm and a very low temperature. 

Austrian expedition came to Pakistan in 1957 to climb this peak. It was lead by Marcus Schmuck with Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger an Austrian climber and photographer and a legendary mountaineer and Hermann Buhl, who is considered on of the best known postwar Austrian climber.It began a reconnaissance of a ridge on the western face of the mountain. Consequently it climbed a snow gully and camped at 5791-M. On the 19th May 1957 all members of the expedition left camp III for an assault on the summit. A storm forced them to return to the base camp; It was however on the 9th June 157 that Marcus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller, Kurt Diemberger and Hermann Buhl climbed the peak without using O2 and high altitude porters.

The name of the other peaks in the Broad range  is Broad Peak middle/ central. In 1976 that a French Expedition led by Yannick Seigneur made an attempt on this peak in alpine style along with main Broad Peak.. This party of four folowed the Austrian first ascent rout an made four attempts but could go only up to 7925-M. The expedition had to come back because of bad weather.Spanish Josef Estruch with five members climbed Broad Peak (Central) in 1987. 

An Italian expedition which was led by Renato Casarottto attempted to climb Broad Peak North 7550-M in 1982 but was unsuccessful. Casarotto however succeeded in climbing it in 1983.

 

 
ITINERARY
 
DAY 01 & 02 ARRIVAL
 
Arrival at Benazir International Aiport, Islamabad and transfer to Hotel..
 
DAY 02 RAWALPINDI / ISLAMABAD
 
Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight in Hotel.
 
DAY 03 RAWALPINDI/CHILAS
 
Departure for Chilas via Silk Rout, sight seeing all along the rout with the company of Indus river the longest river of Pakistan It flows from Tibet northwest across the Indian-controlled portion of Jammu and Kashmir, passing between the western extremity of the Himalayas and the
northern extremity of the Hindu Kush mountain range; it then courses generally south through Pakistan to the Arabian Sea. Check in hotel. Overnight in Chilas.
 
DAY 04 CHILAS / SKARDU
 
Arrival in Skardu.
Total drive time from Islamabad to Skardu is 22-24 hours.
 
DAY 05 SKARDU
 
Day for the final arrangement for the expedition.
 
DAY 06 SKARDU -TO- ASKOLE
 
Early morning start Jeep drive towards inhabitance on our way to the Great Glaciers. Highest in the region, the stone & timber abodes contain dark & narrow stairwells riven by gloomy, unlit alleys cluster within the embrace of the fertile terraces. Overnight in tents.
Distance 96 km
Drive 07-08 hrs
Altitude 3050 m
 
DAY 07 ASKOLE -TO- KOROPHONE
Early moning departure from last inhabited village, remaining portion of our journey we rely on our porters who carry our food and equipment’s and sustain our expedition. After scrambling over a ridge we come across what legend says an old polo field. Passing through a rock gap we cross the Biafo glacier and camp beside its snout at korophone. The Biafo Glacier is a huge river of ice 63 Km long which descends from the central peaks of the Karakoram & flows East into the Braldu Valley at a point about 10 Kms east of Askole. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 03 - 04 hrs
Grade : Easy
Altitude : 3100 M
 
DAY 08 KOROPHONE -TO- JHULA
 
Trek to the Dumurdo river cross at Jhula, (Jhula means wire rope bridge with a hanging wooden basket), now a wooden bridge is made cross it & camp beside a torrent facing the Bakhordas.
Walk : 03-04 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 3150 M
 
DAY 09 JHULA -TO- PAIJU
 
Resume trek along the Braldu River to a green Oasis under the shadows of Paiju Peak 6611 M. Paiju - is a Balti word which means "SALT". Since there are some rock salt deposits at the base of this peak, the locals believe that the snow on the summit of Paiju Peak is not snow but a huge deposit of salt which drips down to the base. From this camp we have the first views of the impressive Baltoro Glacier. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05-06 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 3480 M.
 
DAY 10 PAIJU - Rest Day
 
Rest & acclimatization day at Paiju. Overnight in tents.
 
DAY 11 PAIJU -TO- URDUKAS
 
After an early breakfast, start the trek. Traverse the junction of Paiju - Baltoro Glaciers through crevasses & lunch below Liligo, the traditional camp under the muddy cliffs with fine views of rock spires. Cross the Khuburse torrent early morning and ramble over two glacier moraines to reach the grassy slopes of Urdukas offering splendid views of the Trango, Uli Biaho & Bial Groups. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Moderate
Altitude : 4130 M
 
DAY 12 URDUKAS -TO- GORO
 
A long walk on the Icy Baltoro Glacier. Traverse the Yermanandu Glacier which flows down from Masherbrum & joins the Baltoro. Magnificent views of Muztagh, Mitre & Gasherbrum IV. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 06-07 hrs
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 4500 M.
 
DAY 13 GORO TO CONCORDIA
 
Early morning start the trek on the Baltoro Glacier to a point called Concordia - a huge junction of Baltoro, Abruzzi & Godwin Austin Glaciers at 4000 meters . Within a short radius of 15 Kilometers, stand 41 peaks over 6500 meters. including 04 peaks above 8000 M. The 360 view offers a panorama of peaks nowhere to be found on this Earth. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 05 - 06 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4720 M.
 
DAY 14 CONCORDIA REST DAY
 
Final day of trek to K2 base. A 4-hrs trek will bring you to the base of K2.
Overnight in tents.
Walk : 04 hrs
Grade : strenuous
Altitude : 4650 M.
 
DAY 15 CLIMBING to DAY 41 CLIMBING
 
Climbing start towards Summit. Length of Climbing period depends on weather, fitness, and experience of the climber
 
DAY 42 TREKKING BACK TO ALI CAMP
 
After an early breakfast leave the K2 base camp and we will cross Concordia and several side glacier to reach our right path. After 4-5 hours we will reach Vigne glacier, it is also possible to walk on the Vigne glacier which is fairly easy then walking on the stony bath on the right side of the glacier but it depend on the snow condition. Overnight in tents.
 
DAY 43 ALI CAMP -CROSS GONDOGORO PASS- KHUSPANG
 
A very early start as early as 2 or 3 O’clock does in the morning to cross the Gondogoro la to reach Khuspang. Overnight in tents.
Walk : 10 - 11 hrs.
Grade : Strenuous
Altitude : 5700 M
 
DAY 44 KHUSPANG -TO- SHAICHO
 
You pick your way across moving boulders and ice, finally crossing the glacier up to the camping site to reach Dalsangpa, meaning 'field of flowers', lives up to its name. Keep yourself on the left side of the lateral moraine, crossing several side streams. The next hour is an unpleasant scramble along the stony, sliding glacier edge, with huge boulders poised above, ready to fall.
Continue your trek along the path goes down hill to the summer settlement called Shaicho, a large shepherds settlement. This is the traditional camp among the forest of juniper, cedar and willow trees with giant bushes of wild roses and a good water supply. Walk : 07-08 hrs
Grade : Moderate
 
 
DAY 45 SHAICHO -TO- HUSHEY
 
After breakfast continue your walk along the Hushey river on a easy path. An easy day will bring you to Hushey village. Evening free. Overnight in tents.
 
 
DAY 46 HUSHEY -TO- SKARDU
 
Dirve for a full day ride on a winding jeep trail to Skardu. Upon arrival transfer to Hotel. All meals included.
 
DAY 47 SKARDU - RAWALPINIDI
 
Early in the morning fly to Islamabad, if unable to fly same day drive to Chilas Overnight in hotel.
 
DAY 48 RAWALPINDI
 
Upon arrival transfer to your hotel in Rawalpindi. Evening sightseeing.
 
DAY 49 RAWALPINDI
 
De-briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan, Islamabad.
 
DAY 50 Transfer to Benazir International Aiport for your onward destination.
 
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